Cod cheeks and fish collars might not be your idea of a usual fish supper, but Lyon’s Seafood & Wine Bar in Crouch End is not your usual fish restaurant. Their mission? To use every part of a fish when possible to avoid waste. The result? An ever-changing menu of fascinating dishes. The cured salmon with fennel, ponzu and truffle was a dazzling, melt-in-the-mouth combination of freshness and richness. Stonebass tartare with yuzukosho and tobiko was similarly good; tender fish, fruity and salty. As for the miso fish collar, it’s a curious looking (OK, I’ll say it, ugly) thing. But once we dug in and discovered the miso-infused meaty fish, we were converted.
Despite the temptation to fill up on small plates (or the sourdough with seaweed butter – heaven), save room for dessert. The thyme ice cream sundae sandwich with roasted clementine was one of the most interesting and flavour-packed puddings I’ve eaten in years. 1 Park Rd, N8
